Peggy’s Cove is a must-see attraction for visitors to Nova Scotia.
In summer, tourists flock to the picturesque fishing village an hour’s drive southwest of Halifax to see its famous lighthouse and walk on barren rocks that jut out into the Atlantic Ocean.
Almost everyone passes by The Whale’s Back, a country store in neighbouring Indian Harbour.
Located on scenic Route 333—the only road to Peggy’s Cove—it is also the closest convenience store to the provincially-protected inlet.
Open daily year-round, it sells everything from groceries, baked goods, tobacco and alcohol to suntan lotion, ice cream, fireworks and souvenirs.
“We cater to everyone—locals and tourists alike,” says store manager Marcy Graves. “But from late May to early October we serve mostly tourists. And we can get awfully busy.”
Winter is prep time
For Graves, success at the store in summer both starts with and depends on the plans and actions she and her team take during the quieter winter months.
They include visits to gift shows in search of merchandise for The Whale’s Back and its sister property—the Sou’Wester Restaurant and Gift Shop next to the lighthouse in Peggy’s Cove—and doing annual spring maintenance.
“We put out some picnic tables and spruce things up by cleaning and painting,” says Graves, who has been with the business 25 years. “Then we start looking at orders for things like fireworks, ice cream and saltwater toffee. Fortunately, we have a great list of suppliers, most of them local—and people love local products. The trick is to be ready when you see the uptick in business in late May.”
That’s a common refrain among c-store owners, operators and suppliers of all sizes and stripes in a country as cold as Canada. For many, the food, gas and supplies that cottagers, campers and road trippers buy in their stores during the summer months is crucial to their business’s bottom line.
“Things are dead here until the May 24th weekend then—boom!—they go crazy until Labour Day,” says Laura Fevez, who owns and runs the Honeymoon Bay Food & General Store in Honeymoon Bay on Vancouver Island, an hour’s drive north of Victoria.
It is the only c-store in the village, which is nestled in pristine wilderness on Lake Cowichan, a popular summertime destination for campers, hikers, cyclists, boaters and anglers.
Since buying the business in the early summer of 2022 and going through what she calls “my baptism of fire” in the c-store trade, Fevez said she spends the slow winter months making physical changes to the store and expanding its product lines to make the most of the summer rush.
“You have to put in a lot of time and effort to think about things and to shop and order items you hope will find favour with your customers,” says Fevez. “It takes a lot of schlepping.”
In addition to expanding her store’s kitchen to make more food items, like breakfast sandwiches, pizza and samosas, which the previous owner introduced, she rearranged aisles and displays to improve the flow of traffic and give the business what she calls “more of a general store look where people can breathe and relax.”
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